Suckers Boulder
Sitting nestled between three considerably larger boulders, Suckers boulder still holds its own with some excellent problems. From the technical Toto, that will leave you wondering why it took you so long to get up, to the arm destroying Shield, this boulder definitely doesn't submit easily.
The Problems
1. Cave Route - 6a
Start sitting down at the left arete of the face. Climb up left into the darkness and through the gap above without putting your back on the other boulder.
2. Cave Route Right Hand - 6a+
Start just left of Toto at the left arete of the face and climb direct to the jug using a couple of small edges.
3. PS - 3
Fight your way up the gap between the two boulders.
4. Toto - 6b
Another Dumbarton classic. Climb the left slanting crack and use a small crimp out right to gain a high pinch and finish on the jug out left. Easy when you know how.
5. Toto Sit Start - 7a
Start sitting crossed over down on the right of Toto. Climb the small ledges left to gain Toto.
6. Totality - 7b+
Climb Toto SS until the crack then move right using the side pull and a series of small holds to a jug and top out direct.
7. Toto Traverse - 7a+
Climb Toto SS to base of crack and continue out left and finish up on Toto jug.
8. The Shield - 7b+
A Dumby test piece. Pull on the shield anywhere feels possible, get your feet high and boost for the slopey jugs at the top with the right or left hand.
9. The Shield Sit Start - 7c
Pull of the ground using the shallow pocket to gain the undercut and finish up The Shield.
10. The Shield Right Hand - 6c
Using the undercut at the base of the shield feature and a bad sloper out right throw for the lip out right.
11. Redpath's Problem - 7b
Eliminate. Use the left hand power pocket and a pinch on the left for hands, and the square foothold and a tiny pocket just above the ground. Make a desperate blind slap for a tiny edge above the Power Pockets sloper and pull over.
12. Power Pockets - 6c
Use the two shallow, sharp finger pockets and a low square toe edge to slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over
13. Power Pockets SS - 7c+
Sit start Power Pockets. Desperate!
14. The Railings - 6a+
Start in the jug at the end of the arete then traverse the lip to pull over above the shield.
15. Snooker Shelf - 5a
Climb up onto the big left slanting ramp and follow it to finish up a groove.
16. Kneebar - 6a
Sit start to Snooker Shelf.
17. Mosca - 4a
The left arete of the slab. Approach from rear. Untraveled and dirty.
18. Antimatter - 5b
An eliminate with thin smearing up the slab left of Suckers.
19. Suckers Slab - 5b
Climb centre of slab on tiny holds.
20. Volopone - 4
Climb the thin crack.
