Dumby Sport Dumby Sport Dumby Sport Dumby Sport

Sport Climbing

Although the majority of climbing at Dumby is on the boulders, it also has its fair share of high quality sport routes too, especially in the higher grade ranges. The main sport wall is at a perfect angle and provides brilliant, very technical and crimpy climbing.


There is also the super classic Persistence of Vision, 7a+ which is a superb slab climb at the base of the headwall providing balancey, slopey climbing on perfect rock to a slightly intimidating finish.

Here's the topos...

Appliance of Violence
Back Corner

The Headwall

Marginally over-shadowed by the surrounding Trad routes there are a few really good sport routes to be done in the shadow of the main headwall.
1. Omerta - F7c (Probably F7c+)
Climbs the left hand arete of the main headwall. This route has a very hard boulder problem to start which ends a lot of peoples attempts. Probably around a Font 7b boulder problem to the ledge where you can sit and rest. From here, climb the face to the right of the arete. A very tough F7C and very rarely climbed!!!
2. Persistence of Vision - F7a+
A Dumby classic, Persistance of Vision is a superb slab climb at the base of the headwall providing balancey, slopey climbing on perfect rock to a slightly intimidating finish.
3. Abstract Art - F6c
Another slab climb on similar slopey pinches and crimps but well worth a pull on. Was recently cleaned up so in a lot better nick now.
A couple of projects
If anyone fancies a project, there's a couple of bolted lines left and right of the Requiem crack which may weigh in around F9b and F9a/F9a+ respecitvely.

The Main Wall

Home to the largest concentration of routes. This wall provides excellent, sustained climbing requiring lots of technique and strong fingers.
4. Dum Dum Boys - F7c+
The far left route. Get to the start by climbing to slab to gain the first bolt. At couple of very hard moves at the third bolt involving a very, very bad crimp. From here it eases off to the top.
5. Sufferance - F8a
An amazing route with crimpy, delicate and sustained climbing to a jug at around half height followed by big moves between better holds all the way to the top.
6. Tolerance - F8b
Climb right off the belay ledge to the big flake then climb up the face using a combination of a heel hook, some very bad foot holds and two small sidepull crimps to throw for the Sufferance foot ledge. Climb up into Sufferance then traverse left all the way into the crux of Dum Dum Boys. Finish up this.
7. Endurance - F8a
Start as for Tolerance but finish up Sufferance.
8. Tarrier - F8a
Climb right off the belay ledge to the big flake climb up then continue moving right to the arete. Climb direct up from here through a crux involving a triangular undercut below the large ledge. Join the last two bolts of Sufferance to finish.
9. Suffix - F8a
A nice link up that climbs the first half of Sufferance to the jug and traverses right into Tarrier with a exciting run-out. Finish up Tarrier.

The Back Corner

Round in the back corner, behind all of the boulders, there's a nice little collection of mid-grade routes.
10. Appliance of Violence - F7b+
More of a boulder problem than a route but an excellent climb none-the-less. Climb straight up for the first 3 bolts to a ledge and then move right to gain the arete. Climb this to the top.
11. Negative Creep - F8b
Start up Appliance of Violence but break out left after the crux to gain a good sidepull. A long reach gains another big sidepull leading to a desperate crimping sequence to the finishing holds on the ledge. F7c to the last three moves, and the grade is definitely for clipping the belay rather than grabbing it!
12. Bad Attitude - F7b
The first of 3 very good F7b's giving a more vertical climbing experience than the rest of the routes at Dumby. Climb the corner straight up just right of the arete.
13. Half Breed - F7b
Climbs the centre line, veering slightly right at the start and finishing straight up.
14. The Unforgiven - F7b
Traverse right at the start to gain the right hand line of bolts and climb straight up through the overlaps on slopey edges and pinches.
15. Benny's Route Left Hand - F7b
The next three routes are a bit on the loose side and not the best climbing. Climb up and slightly left. The is a large scoop out left you can get a very good rest in at about half height.
16. Benny's Route - F7c
Climbs up and veers right to gain a crack like feature. Finish up this.
17. Natural Born Drillers - F7a
Climb right out over the drop to a couple of hard moves at the crack which allows you to get established on the hanging slab. Watch you don't bang your head!!!