rock and run
Home Rule Boulder

Home Rule Boulder

This boulder stands at the foot of the looming headwall with is very distinctive flat vertical face north.


The sheer size of this boulder gives some good highball, exposed problems. The most classic being Physical Graffiti that ascends the centre of main face.


The big cave on the boulders underside also gives some very hard roof problems thanks again to Dave MacLeod.

The Problems

Home Rule Boulder
Home Rule Boulder 2
Home Rule Boulder 3
Home Rule Boulder 4
Home Rule Boulder 5
Home Rule Boulder 6
Home Rule Boulder 7
1. The Beast - 3
Climbs the bulging juggy arete facing the main wall. This route is also the descent off the boulder and is definitely easier going up than down.
2. The Brute - 4
As you can see from the photo the top out of the next 6 routes is rarely traveled and is in need of some serious cleaning, be warned!


The wall just right of the arete is gained from the smaller of two rocks below the boulder.
3. Valkyrie - 4+
Climb the shallow corner above the two rocks and finish up the slab.
4. Pas Encore - 5
Climb the strenuous bulge above the larger rock and finish up the slab.
5. Crimp! - 6b+
Start below the obvious jutting nose. From the right side of the larger rock, gain a slot hold under the roof. Climb straight up, just left of the arete and use a flat hold and small crimp on the slab to pull over with difficulty.
6. More Chicken - 7a
An eliminate problem climbing the actual arete left of Head Butt. Starting as for the previous problem, from the slot hold, use a tiny edge on the nose to slap desperately up the edge of the nose. Holds to the left are out of bounds.
7. Head Butt - 7a
Start at Pas Encore, but traverse right, and pull round into the corner on the right of the nose. Slap awkwardly up this (head used on the first ascent!) to finish.
8. Malky - 7b+
Using a small crimp for your right hand throw up to the sloping shelf and finish direct without using the Mugsy jug.
9. Mugsy (ya bass) - 7a
Another classic. Start at the jug on the lip of the cave. Jump for a sloping hold with your right and use a left foot heel hook on the jug to gain an undercut left hand and then throw for the jug up and left. Finish rightwards into Mestizo or left up the slab(very dirty).
10. Mugsy Traverse - 7b
Start at the left of the cave. Traverse the handrail in the roof rightwards and use a heel/toe lock to move up into Mugsy, finishing up this.


An extended traverse can be started from a line of good holds behind the rocks in the depths of the cave and ups the grade to 7b+.
33 Glasgow Kiss - 7c+
Climb Spam (14) to the juggy rail then finish up Malky.
34 Nice and Sleazy's - 7c+
Start Mestizo Sit Start (18) and traverse left along to the Mugsy jug. Finish up Malky.
11. Hokku - 8a
From the spikey just next to Sucker boulder climb the roof to gain Mugsy Traverse.
12. Soshu - 8a+
Extension to Hokku. Sit start at the lowest point of the suspended roof of the home rule boulder. Climb the lip problem rightwards and then follow line of good but spaced holds into the cave, on the side of a hanging prow. From a bat hang rest at the spiky jug finish up Hokku.
13. Set in Motion - 7c+
Starts on an obvious three finger in cut crimp and do three desperate moves on tiny crimps to get the Mugsy Traverse rail and finish up this.
14. Spam - 7c
Start sitting pulling sideways on the big finger edge and move to the crimpy rail. From here move out to gain the Mugsy jugs and finish up this.
15. Knowledge is Power - 7b+
Start at the crimpy rail in the roof of the cave and make a hard move to the Mugsy jug, then follow the Mestizo Traverse to the hard move on the arete. Now reverse the Home Rule Low Traverse and finish up Home Rule.
16. Mestizo - 6a
A brilliant problem climbing the left arete of the graffiti covered wall. Climb the arete to a good hold and move left on edges. A thin but excellent rockover leads to the easy groove and the top. Good landing.
17. Mestizo Traverse - 7b
Start at the left of the cave and traverse right to the arete and make a hard move to gain this and finish up Mestizo.


An extended traverse can be started from a line of good holds behind the rocks in the depths of the cave and ups the grade to 7b+.
18. Mestizo Sit Start - 7a+
Sit start at the bottom of the arete on a side pull and the large sloping pinch. Boost you left hand up to the large sloping jug and then heel hook at your right hand to gain Mestizo, finish up this.
19. Home Rule Low Traverse - 7a+
A technical masterpiece. From the right arete traverse left with increasing difficulty to a cross through move to gain Mestizo (crux). Finish up this.
20. Home Rule High Traverse - 6b
Start up Home Rule (22) and traverse left along a line of crimps to gain the triangular Mestizo jugs on the arete. Finish up Mestizo.
21. Physical Graffiti - 6c (E4 6b)
A bold and fingery meander up the main face. Start on the left and climb on good crimps to finish up and right.
22. Home Rule - 6a
From a good handrail get a high foot and move through the poor undercut pinch to gain the high handrail. Traverse right on this to finish easily at the block on the arete.
23. Bob's Problem - 6a
Start just left of the arete on the horizontal edge. Pull up and catch the sloper beside the arete with your right then continue to the handrail.
24. Presence - 5+
Climbs the arete.
25. Route Royale - 6a
An intimidating trip across the wall to the right of Presence. The climbing is never hard or committing, but is technical and very bold. Start on the edge of the platform. Traverse right across the wall past a groove and move up right to the arete. Rock over into a niche on the arete and continue easily to the top.
26. Chicken Royale - 6c
Start sitting on the grass slope and an undercut in the cave and climb up and left to gain Presence.
27. Royal Arete - 6b
Climb the blunt arete directly to join Route Royale near the top. Bold.
28. The Whip - E2 5b
Climb the right side of the blunt arete until it is possible to use good holds to move rightwards into the obvious shallow groove. Climb this until a scary, thin move left leads to ledges and the top. Guaranteed to raise the pulse! Especially if you take the direct finish over the bulge (5c).
29. Unnamed Traverse - 6c
Start hanging from a good hold in the roof under the start of The Whip (or sitting down on the left). Move to a hold on the lip, then slap right to a huge and good side pull. Use this to climb the small arete and pull over on small crimps.
30. The Switch - 5+
A left slanting hanging slab between The Whip and Valhalla.
31. Valhalla - 4
The shallow fault above the junction of the two boulders. Bridge up the gap and use a good jug to pull onto the wall. Climb the groove to a technical exit. Another very bold problem.
32. The Beauty - 4
Climb the bulging wall just left of The Beast.

The Topos