rock and run
F Boulder

Pongo Boulder

If you could pick up a boulder from Dumbarton and put it in your garden it would probably be this one, its got everything - long traverses, link ups, one move wonders, dyno's and slabs from Font 3 all the way up to 8b.


It's also home to Scotland's first 8a - Pongo Sit Start, which climbs the overhanging crack on the right of the main face.

The Problems

Suckers Boulder
Suckers Boulder 2
Suckers Boulder 3
Suckers Boulder 4
1. Skint Knuckles - 5
Use a good side pull on the right wall to layback rightwards until it is possible to pull over on to the big ledge.
2.1. Slap Happy - 7a
From the jug reach the slopey edge up and right and make a hard move to the top edge. Easy to reach, hard to hold.
2.2 Hap Slappy - 7b+
An eliminate based on Slap Happy. Take the small slopey edge with your left hand and then twist and pull through to the top edge.
3. In Bloom - 7c
A fingery, powerful test piece. Start at the angular hold on the left and traverse right along the rail of edges to span out to the Pongo flake. Finish up Pongo.
4.1 Mr Tickle - 8a
Mr Tickle
From the end of the In Bloom handrail get your feet high and dyno for the holds at the top of the Pongo crack.
4.2 Mr Tickle Extension - 8a+
Video Icon
Traverse into Mr Tickle along In Bloom.
5. Pongo - 6c+
Jump start into the flake in the crack using a left hand on the end of the In Bloom rail. Climb the rest of the crack, move left and top out at the prominent block.
6.1. Pongo Sit Start - 8a
Mr Tickle
The original method. From the two holds just below the crack climb to the jammed block and either pinch or crimp the top to make a big span up to the flake with your left hand. Now match the flake and finish up Pongo.
6.2. Pongo SS (Knuckle) - 7c
New beta was found after first ascent. Climbs the original problem but uses a three finger jam just above the jammed block to make the span to the flake.
7. Pongo Arete - 7a+
Start sitting and pull to the base of the crack and then move right to the arete. Climb the arete and re-join the crack above the flake. Finish up Pongo.
8. Andy's Arete - 6c+
Andy's Arete
Sit start the right arete and climb it to its top.
9. Buzz Saw - 7a+
Extension to Andy's Arete that starts around the corner in the small pocket.
10. Supersize Me - 8b
A Malcolm Smith link-up. Start in the pocket around the corner and climb left into Pongo SS (original). Climb this to the flake and then reverse In Bloom and Finish up Slap Happy.
11. Sorcerers Slab - 3
Climbs the left side of the slab
12. Magic Wand - 3+
Climb straight up from the start of Sorcerers Slab.
13. Slant - 3
Climbs the steep groove on the right of the slab.
14.1. Consolidated - 7b+
Video Icon
An excellent traverse. Start at the arete just left of Nemesis on a side pull and undercut. Traverse right on small holds on the lip and then drop down to better holds. Follow the line of parallel holds/ramps to the blunt arete of Cheddar Direct. From here continue right using holds just under the lip (no hold in the red area marked on topo) to the triangular hold at the end of the face and then finish up the arete.
14.2. Consolidated Extension - 7c
Instead of finishing up the arete drop down and match the triangular hold and finish right to the big jugs on the descent route.
15. Nemesis - 5
Use a poor finger jam in a small crack to slap up left to a jug and pull over to finish up the easy groove.
16. Narcosis - 5
Rather blind climbing up the wall to the right of Nemesis. A sitting start from the huge, hidden undercut is 6a.
17. Lunik - 4+
climbs the shallow groove in the centre of the face. Use a hidden in cut to pull into the groove, then continue directly to finish up the technical arete.
18. Cheddar Direct - 4
Start at a blunt arete with a little niche in it. Climb past this until standing on the slab above. Move rightwards across the slab to finish.
19. Hard Cheddar - 5
Start at the same point as Cheddar Direct but follow holds on the lip of the hanging rib rightwards to finish up Juggie.
20. Big Cheese - 7c+
Sit start and pull off two very poor pinches into the small in cut edge and finish up Hard Cheddar.
21. Juggie - 4
Steep climbing up the arete just left of the descent passage leads to good jugs.

The Topos