Eagle Boulder
You can't really miss the Eagle boulder. It's the first lump of rock you come across at Dumby and it's a massive one at that. Home to some of Dumby's best lines and problems as well as the classic Blue Meanie - Font 5, a must do for anyone visiting.
The Problems
1. Gorilla - 6c
From the starting crimps slap up for the large, smooth layaway above. Make a long reach left to a jug on the lip and then rock over onto the slab.
2. Gorilla Hanging - 7a+
Start on the low crimp on the face and the finger edge under the lip. Use a combination of heel hooks and clamping to get into the start of gorilla and finish up this.
3. Neil's Extension - 7b+
Sit at a low crimp on the face and a low side pull in the cave. Two hard moves to get into the hanging start.
4. Gorilla Warfare - 7a
Climb Gorilla and traverse the lip around the corner to the jugs at the block and mantle onto the slab.
5. Cautious Lip - 6c
Start as Gorilla and finish directly up.
6. Silverback - 7c
From the starting crimp on Gorilla, move left through the sloping ledge to the lone crimp on the arete and then launch to the protruding hold at the top.
7. King Kong - 8a
Start in Neil's extension and gain Silverback. Climb this and then finish around the corner in Gorilla warfare.(gorilla jug is not in).
8. Shin Sekai - 6c+
Start at an edge and side pull and make a rather large dyno to an obvious hold just below the lip.
9. Hoops - 7c
Move up to a finger jug and make a very long rockover to the crimp on top of the ear feature. Move left on the lip to finish at better holds.
10. Bingham's Wall - 7b+
From the juggy rail gain a crimp and then reach left to the lip.
11. Dressed for Success - 7b+
An excellent, sustained traverse. Start at the jugs left of Supinator and traverse right, past Supinator. A difficult sequence leads to a finish up 2HB
12. Supinator - 6a+
Climb the line of the crack to a crux move at the top. Bold and high, this problem intimidates even the hardened Dumby faithful.
13. 2HB - 6a
Use the flat crimp ledges to make a rockover move to gain the little undercut hold and top out using big holds.
14. A Ford Flash - 7b
Climb a small groove right of 2HB and make a long reach left to a good hold.
15. Torino Sun - 6b
Start on the plinth and use a right hand press to gain the side pulls on the left and stretch up for the jugs at the top.
16. Oceans - 7c
Start on the plinth and use a right hand press to gain the side pulls on the left and stretch up for the jugs at the top.
17. 1990 Traverse - 7b
Sit start on layback hold in the groove and work your way right through crimps to reach bigger holds. Step across and join Blue Meanie and top out.
18. Snappy - 6b+
Climb up to the good crimp and make a big move out left to the jug. Layback the rail of holds to the top. A bold climb above a rock ledge that you wouldn't want to fall onto.
19. Yappy - 6b+
Climb easily up to the undercut jugs and make a bold move up and left to top out.
20. Blue Meanie - 5
Start on the jug and move through the triangular pinch under the bulge to gain jugs on the bulge and finish on jugs leftward.
21. PTO - 4
Climb the short wall and bulge a few metres left of the descent route, with a long reach from an undercut.
22. Rankin's Bajin - 3+
Climb the slab direct on good holds.
23. Soixante Neuf - 3+
Climb the slab direct on good holds.
24. Pas Mal - 3
Climb the slab just left of No.1 Route, joining that route at half height.
25. Left Direct - 3
Start up Pas Mal, then climb rightwards from the ramp.
26. No.1 Route - 3
Climbs the large left slanting ramp
27. Centre direct - 4
Delicate climbing up the centre of the slab.
28. No. 2 Route - 4
The right trending ramp and flake gives a pleasant problem.
29. Right Direct - 3
Climb straight up from the flake of No.2 Route.
30. No.2 Direct - 4
A tiny problem, climbing the small white groove at the start of the overhanging wall.
31. Pullover - 5
Reach the jug on the lip and pull over using a flat hold up and left.
32. Runs on Potato Power - 7a
Start on two undercuts, slap with the right hand to crimp above and gain vertical side pull on left. Slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over.
33. Kev's Problem - 7a
Start on the twin undercuts and slap with the left hand to the crimp above. Continue straight up into Pullover.
34. Bust My Chops LH - 7a
Crouch start on the ramp and move up to small crimps in next break and slap left for a large right facing sloper. Finish direct.
35. Bust My Chops RH - 7a+
Follow LH to second break and use small holds on lip (no jugs) to move up right to flat hold above and pull onto slab
36. Zig Zag - 4
Start on jugs and pull onto slab. Step left onto overhanging slab and finish directly.
37. Zig Zag SS - 6c
Sit start to Zig Zag.
37. Double Slopers - 6a
Another variation starts at an undercut (good footholds) moving up with a slap for the slopey lip. Finish up Zig Zag.
38. Bampot Arete - 6b+
SS the arete form slopers to right flattie then up left to lip. Rock over and finish Zig Zag.
39. Bampot Traverse - 7a
Up Bampot Arete then traverse the lip and finish up Zig Zag.
40. Fouk Ye - 7b
Bampot Arete without flattie out right. Just pull hard on the side pull crimp.
41. Tam's Route - 5+
Climbs the slightly overhanging groove 1m right of Bampot Arete.
42. Shadow - 7a+ (E5 6c)
Climb the overhanging black groove with difficulty to its top. Make a hard and technical move up and left to a good hold and finish up the small slab.
43. Trick of the Vale - 7b (E7 6c)
Climb the groove as for Shadow and move right onto a ledge. Continue up the centre of the wall direct, heading for the apex, to a difficult mantle shelf on to the dirty slab.
44. High Flyer - 6c+
From a ledge on the left side of the cave make a ridiculous leap for a good hold and continue to the lip of the overhang.
45. Smokescreen - 7c
A hard sequence through slopey pinches to gain the jug into High Flyer.
46. Pressure - 8b
A Dave MacLeod test piece! Start at the back of the cave at a small pillar. Climb the horizontal roof to the jug on the lip and then join and finish up Smokescreen.
47. Firestarter - 8a
From the big juggy ledge move right, with the help of a really high heel hook, to a tiny crimp and then climb the hanging groove to the top.
48. Firefight - 8b
Another hard link-up from Malcolm Smith. Climb Pressure into Firestarter.
