rock and run
BNI Boulder

BNI Boulder

Another massive lump of rock perched on its corner. Most of the problems have very highball finishes that can leave you feeling very vulnerable, just try Pendulum, Font 4, and you'll see what I mean.


It's also home to a huge share of Dumby's hardest problems thanks to Dave MacLeod and Malcolm Smith - four 8a+'s, three 8b's and an 8b+.

The Problems

BNI Boulder
BNI Boulder 2
BNI Boulder 3
1. Harvester of Eyes - 3
The next three problems start from the ledge on top of the F boulder. This problem climbs the open groove on the left of this face.
2. Astronomy - 2
The ribs and grooves in the centre of the face are straightforward and give the best descent route from this boulder.
3. Deo Gratis - 4+
The wall left of the arete is straightforward, apart from one hard and bold move to stand on a tiny foothold.
4. Imposter Arete - 4
The high arete on the left of the huge slab gives excellent, steady climbing on small but good holds.
5. B.N.I - 5
Start at the base of Imposter arete and traverse across the slab to the obvious good foothold. Make a difficult move to swing right onto a small flake, then continue up and right.
6. B.N.I Slab - 5+
Traverse across the slab to the sharp foothold as for BNI, then move up and left and finish easily up the centre of the slab.
7. B.N.I Direct - 7b+
Start on the small crimps on the lip of the slab and pull or throw on a heel to reach up to a sharp hold. From here get established on the slab and finish direct.
8. Very Ape - 6c
Start up the squeeze descent route, then pull out right on big undercuts. Reach over the lip to a small finger hold and pullover onto the BNI slab using mono pockets. Finish up B.N.I. Direct.
9. Sanction - 8b
Climbs the left arete of the roof. Sit start at the ramp and climb through the roof using a combination of edges and crimps to a crux move to the crimp on the lip.
10. Gut Buster - 8b+
Start through the cave in the Railings jug and move down to the walk through cave and climb through using low holds to reach a knee bar at the small hanging ramp. Now climb Sanction and finish up Imposter Arete.
11. Sabotage - 8a
Sabotage BNI
Climb the hanging right arete of the roof from a sit start to gain a bad sloper on the right. A combination of heel hooks and high feet will help you get established on the slab and pullover.
11.1 Sabotaged - 8a
Climb Sabotage and finish up BNI direct (7). Considerably harder than Sabtoage.
24. Le Tour De Technique 7b+
From the right arete traverse the lip to the left and then mantle the slab to finish up imposters arete.
25. La Saboteur - 8a+
Climb Sabotage into La Tour De Technique.
12. The Perfect Crime - 8a+
From the left of the walk through cave climb through to the knee bar rest, and now climb Sabotage.
26 The Perfect Crime Ext - 8b
Perfect Crime with extended start from the Sucker boulder on the Railings jug.
27 Le Grande Tour - 8b
Climbs Le Saboteur with the extended cave start from the Suckers boulder on the Railings jug.
13. The Elbow Basher - 7b+
Elbow Basher
From the F boulder descent span out right a small pinch to reach undercuts at the top of a tiny slab. Traverse these rightwards round the corner to finish up the crack of Good Nicks.
14. The Serum of Sisyphus - 8a+
Start as for Gut Buster on the Railings jug. From the knee bar traverse right into Good Nicks and finish at the halfway jugs.
15. Good Nicks - 6a+
Climb the short finger crack to its top, then make a difficult span left to a small triangular hold on the arete. Match this and pull onto the slab using the flake.Top out on B.N.I.
16. Good Nicks Sit Start - 6b
Sit start and climb to gain the crack and the start of Good Nicks.
17. You're Nicked - 7b
From the finger lock pull up to small edges directly above and make a hard move to the small hold on the arete. Finish up Good Nicks.
18. Pendulum - 4+
onto a ledge and climb the flake steeply on jugs. Use the block at its top to pull round onto the slab. High and exposed but great fun. (p.s. don't fall!)
19. Revelation - E4 6a
Climb the black groove on the right to Pendulum to a blind dyno.
20. Nadjilation - E6 6b
Start standing on the razor sharp boulder under the right hand side of the wall. Climb the wall aggressively, using a fine hold to make a big lunge to the top (crux). Only a few moves, but falling off could be catastrophic!
21. Sugar Rush - 7b
Climbs the right back arete from a sit start.
22. Chahala - 5+
Jump to the first jug, then campus upwards to the top one. Reach right and pull round the arete onto the ledge.
23. Chahala Sit Start - 8a+
Sit start just right of the small boulder and power up through very small edges and a tiny crimp of the face to gain the original problem.

The Topos